From late-night Chinatown haunt to a polished new home at Crown Sydney, Golden Century’s second act brings the classics back with a luxury twist. But does the former Sydney institution, once adored by chefs around town, still have the same charm?
When I first moved to Sydney in 2016, one of my most endearing memories was my brother and his mates dragging me to Golden Century after one too many beers at the Lord Nelson. It was late, the streets were quiet, but inside the restaurant, the night was just beginning – plates of pipis in XO sauce and cold Tsingtaos stacked high, a ritual that felt like a hidden part of the city’s soul.
Once the late-night haunt of chefs and party-goers, I quickly learned that Golden Century was as much a part of Sydney’s identity as the Opera House. You’d find those pipis in XO on the table, deals done over peking duck, and the clatter of plates carrying well into the early hours.
When the pandemic forced its doors shut in 2021, many assumed that was it – a final chapter for a Chinatown classic. But this year, the Wong family brought it back. New address. New views. A second chapter in the luxury setting of Crown Sydney.
So how does its second act compare?
Billy Wong, co-owner and the family’s next generation, says it’s about striking a balance between nostalgia and modern luxury. “Our focus is on quality, consistency, and warm hospitality,” he tells Forbes Australia.
“While paying homage to the original “GC” on Sussex St with live seafood tanks, and a menu brimming with Golden Century’s signature classic dishes including XO pippis and live lobster, peking duck, salt and pepper squid, and a more extensive, 80 items yum cha lunch offering, new life has been breathed into the venue with views overlooking the iconic Sydney Harbour.”
Those same recipes are still the draw. The iconic pipis in XO – still rich, sweet, and briny – hold up in the sleek new surrounds. Lobsters and mud crabs still sit in tanks, waiting to be transformed into those same banquets of old. And the honey king prawns? Still as sweet and satisfying as ever.
The food remains the heart of Golden Century, but the atmosphere has evolved. There’s no more of that Chinatown grit (which will no doubt be a bit of a shame to its seasoned diners). Service here is calm, confident, and carefully orchestrated.
Again, for those who once relished the 4am closing times, this is a different world. I can’t emphasise that enough. No more congee at midnight or last-minute crab orders for a raucous group of chefs. Instead, the dining room feels grown-up, even refined – but it’s still recognisably Golden Century, if you squint.
The wine list is part of the evolution. John Osbeisten and Grant Van Every – two of Sydney’s most respected sommeliers – are here to guide diners through Burgundy, Eden Valley Riesling, or a playful Tsingtao if the mood strikes. It’s a reminder that Golden Century has always been a place to gather, to celebrate, and to toast to another day.
You won’t see trolleys of yum cha weaving between tables here. Instead, dishes arrive from the kitchen in careful sequence, each plate a small luxury.
As Wong explains, Golden Century’s new chapter isn’t necessarily about recapturing the past. It’s about reimagining it for a city that has changed. The late-night energy might be gone, but there’s still a hum in the room – families catching up, friends lingering over another round of jasmine tea (or in our experience, two finance bro’s sampling every drink on the menu).
For those who remember the cramped dining room and the cracked tiles, it might feel like your parents have moved into a flash new apartment. Same family photos on the walls, different postcode. The same recipes, but with a view that’s hard to argue with.
Golden Century’s move to Crown Sydney is part of a broader transformation of the precinct. Beyond the restaurant’s revival, the complex itself is home to luxury hotel rooms and high-end restaurants including the likes of Oncore by Clare Smyth and Nobu.
It’s a quieter buzz now, a different kind of excitement. But if you’re after classic Cantonese fare with a luxury twist, it’s clear that Golden Century’s second act is worth a look.
