Want to re-live your gap year without the grog, the grunge and the go-go bars? Try Koh Yao Yai.
God is important here. The evocative call to prayer is carried on the island breeze five times a day. A subtle reminder you may be in Thailand, but Koh Yao Yai offers a more ethereal experience.
Buffalos wallow near rice paddies and turquoise water laps at secluded white-sand beaches. Life is slow and as languid as the tropical weather.
Riding along a rough concrete road on a trusty, if underpowered, Honda Scoopy passing waving locals, rubber plantations, annoyed monkeys, and the warm wind in your hair – is the definition of paradise.
The trusty Honda Scoopy and monkeys (generally angry) Koh Yao Yai. Image: Stewart Hawkins
It is one of those places where, once you’ve covered the basics, how much money you have is irrelevant. The peace, friendliness of the Muslim population, sunshine, and ocean are free.
Half an hour by speedboat from Bang Rong pier on Phuket, it has escaped the ravages of backpacker tourism. It is largely alcohol-free, although there is a small, reggae-themed sunset beach bar – Gypsy’s – at Phru Nai – and some restaurants sell it. Cars and pickup trucks are there but inconvenient to hire. Motorbikes are pretty much the only option.
You can drop a lot of cash if you want. At Santhiya Resort, you don’t get much change out of THB54,000 ($2,325) a night for a four-bedroom pool villa.
And it’s quite possibly fabulous. I don’t know, I didn’t stay there.
We did stay at the perfectly lovely Elixir, about a half-hour motorbike ride to the south, for less than a fifth of that price.
Two must-visit restaurants
Isaan Fine (Phru Nai, +66973453355) – showcasing local ingredients and cuisine – try the herbal curries and squid ink dishes.
Baan Rim Nam (near Klong Hia Pier +66819562141) is one of the best local restaurants on the island, on stilts over the water – make sure to book – try the mussel and pineapple curry, much more delicious than it sounds.
Diving
Elixir Divers (near the resort with the same name), owned and run by the delightful, good-natured Igor Balint, has a speedboat, is highly professional, has excellent, up-to-date gear and a strong safety ethos. (They can also organise accommodation.)
It’s easily one of the best outfits I’ve dived with in Thailand. I dived at Anemone Reef, Shark Point and Koh Doc Mai while there.
The reefs are in good condition, and we spotted sharks and large rays along with a plethora of reef fish.
+66 878 970 076
info@elixirdivers.com
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