The buzz surrounding jewelry auctions tends to focus on the big, investment-grade gemstones, but auctions are also a prime source of unique, design-focused finished pieces of jewelry, many of them signed by prominent makers.
The December sales of Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Phillips in New York are treasure troves of one-of-a-kind jewels, and this season is especially important for connoisseurs of acclaimed Parisian designer Suzanne Belperron. All three auction houses weigh in with baubles made by the late master, whose signature bold, colorful style caught the eye of movie stars, royals and artists during her active years in the early to mid-20th century.
There are 16 Belperron pieces in the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale (December 10) including a smoky quartz and sapphire bracelet ($150,000 – $250,000); a Belperron/René Boivin sapphire Tranche cuff bracelet ($100,000 – $150,000); and several yellow gold pieces set with old- and rose-cut diamonds.
Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale (December 10) includes the former collection of socialite Millicent Rogers, including a pair of Belperron ruby and sapphire earclips ($8,000 – 12,000); and a diamond floral brooch signed Boivin ($80,000 – $120,000) – (Belperron was the chief designer employed by jeweler René Boivin from 1920 to 1932, and many of the firm’s pieces are believed to have been designed by her. This piece is identified by Sotheby’s as a Boivin creation. Either way, it’s a stunner).
Over at Phillips New York Jewels auction (December 13), there is a pair of trefoil style Suzanne Belperron dress clips, set with pavé diamonds, made circa 1945 ($40,000 – $50,000).
There are plenty of other signed pieces up for grabs at the December sales. A rare treat at Sotheby’s is a pair of ruby and diamond Honeycomb Heart earclips by Salvador Dalí that once belonged to Andy Warhol and were previously sold in the Warhol sale at Sotheby’s in 1988 (est. $60,000 – 80,000).
The Phillips sale includes a Jean Schlumberger tortoiseshell, coral, and diamond clip-brooch ($12,000 – $15,000); a Cartier onyx, diamond and seed pearl etrier (rope) brooch ($20,000 – 40,000); and a Bulgari diamond and wood Serpenti necklace ($50,000 – 80,000).
Christie’s has a classic Cartier bracelet made of carved coral bead links with a diamond clasp ($300,000 – $500,000); a pair of colored diamond and diamond Hedgehog earrings by Joel Arthur Rosenthal, known by his initials JAR ($100,000 – $150,000)); and a Bulgari Kilim bracelet that drapes across the wrist like fabric ($100,000 – $150,000).
If rare investment gems do happen to be on your Christmas (or bucket) list, there are plenty of those. Sotheby’s has a seven-carat fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring ($3.25 – $4.25 million) and an impressive 69-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond and diamond pendant necklace ($2.5 – $3.5 million); and a 10-carat pigeon blood Burmese ruby and diamond ring ($1 – $2 million). Over at Phillips, there is a fancy yellow diamond ring with an old European brilliant-cut diamond weighing 43.15 carats ($550,000 – $850,000; and an unmounted Kashmir sapphire ($150,000 – 200,000).
This article was originally published on forbes.com and all figures are in USD.
